Where’s the most out of the way place you’ve been on a walk? Ardnamurchan is pretty remote at the best of times and at the moment it might as well be in Patagonia for most of us, amid the travel restrictions. Still, it is always good to plan and this is one coastal walk to bookmark, hopefully, for the coming months.
White sandy beaches backed by dunes, rugged coastline and views to Hebridean islands – this has to be a perfect coastal walk. Take your time, and a picnic, then linger and enjoy. But do keep to the travel restrictions at this time – it is not worth the risk to go beyond your local authority area.
DISTANCE: 4½ miles / 7.25km.
HEIGHT CLIMBED: 600ft / 180m.
TIME: 3 to 4 hours.
MAP: OS Landranger 47.
PARK: About five miles from Kilchoan, just after a cattle grid as you enter Portuairk, there is a parking area on the right.
THE ROUTE: Continue down the single track road, enjoying great views over the bay to the islands of Canna, Rum, Muck, Eigg, and even Skye in the distance on a clear day. At the bottom of the hill go right at a junction in front of a little sandy inlet to pass some white cottages. Then, go left in front of the last cottage, following a sign for Sanna.
At a burn head a little way upstream to cross a wooden bridge then go downstream to follow another sign for Sanna, up a coastal path. Once through a small gate drop past an isolated cottage and head inland a short way to cross a burn via stones. On the other side go inland a little further before following a path going round to the left, ignoring a path going left again after a few yards.
At a junction turn right to go up a fairly steep, rocky path. This gradually bears left as you gain height and reaches a signpost, where you go straight on. The path bends further left to reach a stunning view of white sandy beaches and the Hebridean islands beyond. Drop down towards the beaches and at the bottom follow a bath going right – it is best to take this route if the tide is high. Go through a gate, turn left then reach a stile, on the other side of which are the beaches.
Follow the main beach along and round to the left before taking a path to the right, over dunes. To the south west you can now see Coll and Tiree. Follow another beach to a white house standing alone. Go up the side of a sizeable burn to cross an old wooden bridge then follow an indistinct path round to the left, behind the house. There are now views of Ardnamurchan Lighthouse as the path begins to bear right.
You continue right to pass a series of cairns from where there are great views, making a large loop which finishes back at the bridge near the white house. Re-cross the bridge and retrace your steps to the start.