A version of this walk description appeared in Scotland on Sunday on May 13, 2007
CAMBO SANDS AND ESTATE, FIFE
Just down from the Old Course in St Andrews is Kingsbarns – a links course for more than two hundred years.
The beautiful Cambo Sands on its eastern side is a lovely place for a stroll or picnic – it is often a little quieter than other beaches in the area.
At the southern end a path takes you up a beautiful wooded glen to the Cambo Estate, privately owned by the Erskine family since 1688. This is best known for its snowdrops but it is beautiful all year round and the contrast with the stunning, windswept coast is fantastic. There is an entrance fee for the gardens but it is well worth it and children go free.
DISTANCE: 3 miles.
HEIGHT CLIMBED: Undulating but about 80ft in total.
TIME: 1½ to 2½ hours.
MAP: OS Landranger 59.
PARK: Turn off the A917 at the southern edge of Kingsbarns and drive three-quarters of a mile to the end of a narrow road and a car park next to the sea.
IN SUMMARY: Drop down to the beach and look to the left at the remains of the old Kingsbarns harbour before going right, along the sands. (Even at high tide you can walk along the shoreline although you may have to clamber over some rocks to avoid getting your feet wet. If unsure or the waves are high, follow the path above the dunes with Kingsbarns Golf Links to your right.)
At the far end of the beach go up to the top of the dunes and carry on in the same direction. As a track goes away to the right, go left and follow a Fife Coastal Path waymarker.
The path leads to a green and then a broad, well-built track going right. Ignore a another track, going right, and continue down to the Cambo Burn. Go right here and after about 20yards cross a footbridge – the third bridge up from the sea.
Go up some steps and follow the path up the wooded glen, above the burn. After about half a mile you reach a sign indicating the way, right, to the gardens.
Drop down and then go up to the entrance to the walled garden. You have to a go little further to pay the entrance fee in an honesty box next to the potting shed.
After wandering around the walled garden follow the signs through the rest of the gardens to the back of Cambo House where you can make yourself a cup of tea and enjoy a home made cake or sandwich (again, use an honesty box to pay). You can also buy plants here.
Go back to the front of the house and turn left, following the path out of the gardens and back down the wooded glen – on the other side of the burn you came up.
Once at the bottom retrace your steps around the edge of the golf course and along Cambo Sands back to the car park.
A version of this walk description appeared in Scotland on Sunday on April 30, 2006
BEN VRACKIE, PITLOCHRY
Ben Vrackie is one of the finest mountains in Scotland where you climb up high to reach a proper pointed summit with great views over the Perthshire and Grampian mountains.
The wonderful Moulin Hotel at its base helps to make it even better.
DISTANCE: 6 miles.
HEIGHT CLIMBED: 2,100 ft.
TIME: 4 to 5 hours.
MAPS: OS Landranger 43 and 52.
PARK: Turn left at the Moulin Hotel, about a mile from the centre of Pitlochry along the A924, then go right a couple of hundred yards later. The car park is at the top of the single track road on the right.
IN SUMMARY: Ben Vrackie looks great, it is rocky, pointy and dominates the town of Pitlochry below. It’s not a Munro but it is up there as one of the finest summits in Scotland. A walk up is just as a day up a mountain should be; a little strenuous and exhilarating with brilliant mountain views and real sense of achievement.
The route starts on a signed path which takes you out of the car park and alongside the Moulin Burn. Higher up, the sight of the 2,760ft summit greets you – don’t worry about the daunting appearance with a large craggy face looming above, the route up is not as hard it looks.
On reaching two wooden benches from you can take a breather and look back across Pitlochry and down the River Tummel to the Tay beyond. Shortly after the bench ignore a path to the left and carry on to Loch a’ Choire with the summit of Ben Vrackie rising steeply above it.
Cross the grassy dam by the edge of the loch and go up the well built path on the other side. The path zig-zags its way up and is easy to follow (if a little strenuous on the lungs). Near the top the path goes round to the left before a final steep section to reach the summit cairn. Stop and give yourself a pat on the back before using the view indicator to locate mountains from Schiehallion to the south west, the mountains of Lochaber in the far distance to the west and the Grampians to the north.
Retrace your steps to the start.
Note that in winter conditions the use of ice axes and crampons maybe necessary.
A version of this walk description appeared in Scotland on Sunday on August 21, 2016
BEN A’AN, TROSSACHS
Despite being only a little over 1,500ft high, from the pointed top of Ben A’an you can look down Loch Katrine to the Arrochar Alps. Ben Venue is closer, just across the head of the loch, while Ben Ledi is to the east. South lie the Campsies and north the mountains above Crianlarich.
A new path leads up to the top, via a fun clamber up by the side of a burn. Once at the top, take your time to enjoy the view, it is one of the best in Scotland.
DISTANCE: 3 miles.
HEIGHT CLIMBED: 1,250ft.
TIME: 2 to 2½ hours.
MAP: OS Landranger 57.
PARK: A couple of miles west of Brig o’Turk on the A821 there is a Forestry Commission car park for Ben A’an, on the left. (£3 charge)
If travelling over the Duke’s Pass from Aberfoyle, the car park is on the right a few hundred yards after the turning for Loch Katrine.
IN SUMMARY: Cross the road from the car park and go up a wide track on the other side. When the track bends left go straight on, up steeply on a newly built path.
The path veers left as it nears the tumbling waters of Allt Inneir then continues steeply until a gratefully-reached flat section, before you cross the burn via a wooden footbridge.
The path then continues uphill a short way before levelling out as Ben A’an appears ahead. Don’t be daunted by its pointy appearance, the way up is a lot easier than it looks.
The path carries on across clear-felled ground then enters a band of birch woodland below the crags around the summit.
After a small clearing the path climbs steeply again, by a small burn which you cross, before levelling off and doubling back to reach the summit.
After spending time exploring the summit rocks most return the way they came and this is the easiest option. An alternative is to head to the north and west to reach the shore of Loch Katrine. This, however, is pretty rough terrain and can be very wet underfoot.
A version of this walk description appeared in Scotland on Sunday on March 3, 2009
LOCH AN EILEIN, ROTHIEMURCHUS
This is one of the most popular low level walks in Scotland, and rightly so. Nestled among the Caledonian pines of the Rothiemurchus Forest, Loch an Eilein makes an enchanting setting, completed with the ruins of an ancient castle.
This area is home to some fantastic wildlife. Red squirrels would be a highlight, as well as Scottish crossbills and Osprey in the summer. These magnificent fishers once nested on the castle but were driven away by egg hunters about 100 years ago.
The castle has a history dating back as far as the 13th century and was once said to have been home to the notorious Wolf of Badenoch. In the 1770s a causeway to the ramparts disappeared when the water level was raised by a sluice gate built to allow timber to be floated down to the River Spey.
At the top of the loch a narrow path takes you to Loch Gamhna. Right on the edge of the forest, it sits like a Highland oasis, dwarfed by great, bulky mountains.
The return takes you back along Loch an Eilein then through forest before returning to the shore and a last view of the castle ruins at the end of one of the best short walks in Scotland.
DISTANCE: 4½ miles.
HEIGHT CLIMBED: Undulating but about 500ft in total.
TIME: 1½ to 2½ hours.
MAP: OS Landranger 36.
PARK: Take the B970, Cairngorm road, from Aviemore. Turn right after about three-quarters of a mile, following a sign to Insh. Just over a mile down the road go left, following a brown sign to Loch an Eilein, and you will find a car park another mile further on.
IN SUMMARY: Go to the far end of the car park and take a path to a notice board where you go straight on to reach a small visitor centre and some toilets.
Walk the few yards to the edge of the loch and go right, following a good path.
The main path follows the loch shore, although slightly above it, and passes the castle – after this look out for a path on the left which drops down to a bench offering good views of the ruins.
At the top of the loch ignore a track going right and follow the footpath round to the left.
After a few hundred yards (after the path has veered away from the loch and gone up a slight incline) take a smaller path on the right which leads to Loch Gamhna. Follow the path round the loch to reach the main path again, where you go right.
Ignore smaller paths going off to either side and follow the main path as it veers away from Loch an Eilein, before swinging round to the left and returning to the shore and visitor centre. Go right here to retrace your steps from earlier back to the car park.
A version of this walk description appeared in Scotland on Sunday on December 12, 2009
Bennachie makes for a short but energetic winter walk.
The popular hill has a number of tops and this route visits the highest, Oxen Craig (1,733ft), before reaching Mither Tap (1,699ft). This pointed rocky peak, with a Pictish fort below the summit, is what most people think of when Bennachie is mentioned.
The views are extensive with the Cairngorms to the south of west, Lochnagar to the south west, Mount Keen (the most easterly Munro) is further south and going round to south east is Aberdeen with the North Sea beyond.
DISTANCE: 5½ miles.
HEIGHT CLIMBED: 1,590ft.
TIME: 3½ to 4½ hours.
MAP: OS Landranger 38.
PARK: Drive about six miles north of Inverurie on the A96 and turn left, onto the B9002. A mile and a half later you pass through Oyne and half a mile further turn left, following a brown sign for the Back o’Bennachie car park which is a mile down a single track road.
IN SUMMARY: Follow a path at the top of the car park, entering woods. After a couple of hundred yards go right at a track then, 20 yards later, turn left to follow a path further up into the woodland.
A little further on ignore a path going off to the right, then two going left and continue up through the woods. The path leaves the trees and goes right before zig-zagging up to Little Oxen Craig. Just after a level section of the path you can go right and follow a signpost to visit the old quarry at the top of this outlying summit. For the main route, continue straight on, ignoring a path going left.
Once at the base of Oxen Craig go straight along a path over rocky outcrops past a signpost to reach the summit.
Return to the signpost and go right, down stone steps and along an obvious path. Ignore a path going right and then one to the left. At a junction go right and then right again on reaching another junction.
Ignore a smaller path going left but a little higher go left at a signpost, on a path which bends around the base of Mither Tap. Go right at a signpost and then go up stone steps to the top.
Retrace your steps to the signpost and go left, then go right at the next signpost. At the next signpost go straight ahead ignoring the path on the left, taken earlier.
At the next junction continue straight on, ignoring a path to the right. The path swings left to Craigshannoch – you can make a short detour to the top by taking a path on the right.
Otherwise, continue round to the left and down to a signpost where you go right. The next junction (next to Little Oxen Craig) was passed earlier. Go right to retrace your steps back to the car park.
A version of this walk description appeared in Scotland on Sunday on July 22, 2012
DIRLETON, YELLOWCRAIG AND GULLANE, EAST LOTHIAN
I took my cousin (who is French) to Yellowcraig a few years ago and she was stunned to find out such beautiful beaches existed away from the Mediterranean. If it was hot as the Med the beaches of East Lothian would be even more popular than they are now.
This walk takes in a lovely stretch of coast, including sandy bays and rocky shores, backed by dunes which are filled with flowers in the summer months.
DISTANCE: 8 miles.
HEIGHT CLIMBED: 130ft.
TIME: 3 to 4 hours.
MAP: OS Landranger 66.
PARK: There is a free car park in the centre of Dirleton, off the B1345, opposite the Castle Inn pub.
IN SUMMARY: Cross the road from the car park and walk in front of the pub, following a sign for Dirleton Gallery. Go straight ahead at a junction then bear right at a fork to pass a war memorial and reach the gallery. The road turns into a track shortly after the gallery, follow this between fields.
At a signpost go straight ahead, following a sign for Yellowcraig on to a slightly rougher track. The track bears right when it reaches a band of trees and turns into a path. Follow this as it joins a metal fence which you keep to your left. At a track near a car park and playground go left.
Ignore a sign pointing right and walk through low dunes to Yellowcraig beach with Fidra and its lighthouse offshore. Go left and at the end of the beach keep following the coast. (Note that there is a rough path above the shore but this walk is best done when the tide is out to allow you to explore the rock pools and beaches. Go to this link to check tide times.)
After a rocky section of shore a wide sandy bay is reached with Marine Villa at the far end – Robert Louis Stevenson is said to have spent time at Marine Villa and used Fidra as inspiration for Treasure Island. At this point it is easier to take the path above the rocky shore but after a short while erosion means you have to go back to sea level – not advisable at high tide. After the rocks a wide sandy bay leads to dunes (a path above the shore is now resumed). Follow the coast round the dunes and along a small bay. Another dune path leads to a view of the next section of coast, comprising of a series of sandy bays. Follow these to the end of a fairly large bay with pine trees set back above it. Climb up to some low stone ruins and follow the shoreline to the very wide Gullane Bay. Follow the beach for almost two-thirds of a mile where a gap in the dunes (next to an emergency line) leads to a path up to a car park.
Go left to follow the road out of the car park and at the top leave Marine Terrace and go right, along a road with stone walls on either side. Go left on reaching Gullane’s Main Street. You can catch a bus back to Dirleton but to follow the John Muir Way continue along Main Street, out of the town and past fields.
At a cottage look for a John Muir Way sign pointing down a path. The path leads through trees and down to a road which you cross and turn left. At another John Muir Way sign go right, on to a track – not a well-built path starting to the left of it.
The track turns into a lane and takes you back to Dirleton. At the end of the lane go right to walk past the pub to the car park.